Hong Kong is often imagined as a city of skyscrapers, neon lights, and crowded streets. But just an hour away from Central lies a completely different world: Sai Kung, affectionately known as the “Back Garden of Hong Kong.” With its turquoise waters, volcanic rock formations, fishing village charm, and laid‑back vibe, Sai Kung is where locals escape the city’s intensity and visitors discover that Hong Kong is as much about nature as it is about urban energy.
This beginner’s guide will take you through the essentials — how to get there, what to see, and how to make the most of your adventure in this outdoor paradise.
🚍 Getting There: The Journey is Part of the Adventure
Reaching Sai Kung is a small adventure in itself. There’s no direct MTR line, which is part of why the area feels so removed from the city. Most visitors take the MTR to Choi Hung, Hang Hau, or Diamond Hill, then hop on a green minibus or bus that winds through the hills before dropping you at Sai Kung Town. The ride is scenic — you’ll pass lush forests, glimpses of the sea, and small villages that hint at the slower pace awaiting you.
Arriving at the Sai Kung Bus Terminus, you’re immediately greeted by the waterfront promenade. Fishing boats bob in the harbor, families stroll with ice creams, and the smell of grilled squid wafts from street stalls. It’s a world away from Central’s glass towers, and the slower rhythm sets the tone for the day.
Tip: Weekends can be crowded with locals on staycations. For a calmer experience, visit on a weekday or arrive early in the morning.
🏖 Beaches: The Tai Long Wan Cluster
Sai Kung is home to some of Hong Kong’s most beautiful beaches, and the crown jewel is the Tai Long Wan cluster. This stretch of coastline includes Sai Wan, Ham Tin, Tai Wan, and Tung Wan, each with its own personality.
- Sai Wan is the most accessible, with small cafés serving noodles and cold drinks.
- Ham Tin is popular with campers and surfers, with a rustic charm and a suspension bridge leading to beachside shacks.
- Tai Wan and Tung Wan are more secluded, requiring a longer hike, but reward you with powdery sand and crystal‑clear waters.
Getting there is part of the fun. You can hike in via the MacLehose Trail (Section 2), which offers sweeping coastal views, or hire a speedboat from Sai Kung Pier for a quicker but equally scenic ride. Click here for a comprehensive post on MacLehose Trail (Section 2) from Hillman Blog.
Traveler’s story: Many locals recall their first camping trip at Ham Tin — falling asleep to the sound of waves, waking up to a sunrise over the South China Sea. It’s a rite of passage for Hong Kongers who love the outdoors.
🥾 Hiking Trails: From Easy Strolls to Epic Treks
Sai Kung is a hiker’s paradise. The MacLehose Trail, one of Hong Kong’s most famous long‑distance routes, begins here. Stage 1 takes you past the High Island Reservoir, where dramatic hexagonal volcanic rock columns form part of the UNESCO Global Geopark. Stage 2 continues along the coast toward Tai Long Wan, offering some of the most breathtaking views in the territory.
For something gentler, try the Pak Tam Chung Nature Trail, a family‑friendly walk through forests and streams. Or head to the Sai Kung Rock Pools, a series of natural swimming holes tucked into the hills — best visited after rainfall when the waterfalls are flowing.
Insider note: The rock pools are popular with young locals, who often hike in with friends for a refreshing dip. It’s a reminder that even in one of the world’s busiest cities, nature is never far away.
🏝 Island Hopping: A Different Side of Hong Kong
Sai Kung’s waters are dotted with islands, each with its own story.
- Sharp Island is famous for its tombolo, a natural sandbar that appears at low tide, connecting the main island to a smaller islet. Walking across feels like stepping into another world, with turquoise water lapping on both sides.
- Yim Tin Tsai is an abandoned Hakka village with a restored chapel and salt pans. It’s a fascinating glimpse into Hong Kong’s rural past, and local guides often share stories of families who once lived there.
- Kau Sai Chau is home to Hong Kong’s only public golf course, but also offers quiet coves and hiking trails.
Boats to these islands leave regularly from Sai Kung Pier, and hopping on a kaito (small ferry) is part of the charm.
🦐 Seafood Street & Waterfront Dining
No trip to Sai Kung is complete without a seafood feast. Along the waterfront, tanks overflow with live fish, crabs, lobsters, and shellfish. Diners pick their catch, bargain with the staff, and have it cooked to order — steamed with garlic, stir‑fried with ginger and scallion, or grilled with chili.
Loaf On, a Michelin‑recommended restaurant, is famous for its razor clams and mantis shrimp. Sing Kee is another local favorite, known for its lively atmosphere and generous portions.
The ritual of choosing your seafood is as much part of the experience as eating it. Families gather around the tanks debating which fish looks freshest, while children press their noses to the glass, fascinated by the crabs scuttling inside.
☕ Culture, Cafés & Hidden Gems
Sai Kung isn’t only about beaches and hikes — it’s also a town with character, where fishing village traditions meet a growing café culture. Along the waterfront, the Tin Hau Temple still draws fishermen who pray for safe voyages, its incense coils and stone lions a reminder of the town’s maritime roots. A short stroll away, Man Nin Street bustles with dried seafood shops and grocers, offering a glimpse of everyday life far removed from Hong Kong’s malls.
At the same time, Sai Kung has embraced a more cosmopolitan vibe. Little Cove Espresso is a favorite for Aussie‑style brunch and coffee, while the long‑standing Sai Kung Café & Bakery is beloved for its pineapple buns. For something playful, Law of Yogurt serves quirky desserts that draw families and Instagrammers alike.
Stay into the evening and Sai Kung reveals another secret: its skies. The Sai Wan Stargazing Site is one of Hong Kong’s darkest, where constellations — and sometimes even the Milky Way — shine above the quiet coastline.
🌏 The Last Word
Sai Kung is the perfect counterpoint to Hong Kong’s urban energy. It’s where skyscrapers give way to fishing boats, where neon is replaced by starlight, and where the pace slows enough for you to breathe deeply.
Whether you’re hiking along the MacLehose Trail, swimming at Tai Long Wan, exploring abandoned villages, or feasting on seafood by the pier, Sai Kung offers a glimpse of Hong Kong that many visitors never see.
So carve out a day — or better yet, a weekend — and let Sai Kung surprise you. In this outdoor paradise, the city feels far away, but Hong Kong’s soul feels closer than ever.