Old Town Central: Where Heritage Meets Creativity
Central and Sheung Wan are often seen as the beating heart of Hong Kong Island. By day, Central is a financial powerhouse of glass towers and suited professionals. But step a few streets away, and you’ll find yourself in Old Town Central — a neighborhood where incense coils burn in centuries‑old temples, antique shops spill curios onto the pavement, and indie cafés buzz with students and creatives. This juxtaposition of old and new is what makes Central & Sheung Wan so captivating: it’s a place where you can trace Hong Kong’s history while sipping a flat white in a minimalist coffee shop.
Man Mo Temple: Incense Spirals & History
At the corner of Hollywood Road and Ladder Street sits Man Mo Temple, one of Hong Kong’s oldest and most atmospheric temples. Built in 1847, it is dedicated to two deities: Man Cheong, the God of Literature, and Kwan Tai, the God of Martial Arts. In the Qing dynasty, scholars prayed here for success in imperial exams; even today, students still come to seek blessings before big tests.
Step inside and you’ll be enveloped by the haze of giant incense spirals hanging from the ceiling, slowly releasing fragrant smoke that fills the hall. The temple is dimly lit, with flickering candles, carved wooden plaques, and centuries‑old artifacts like bronze bells and sedan chairs. Despite being in the middle of a busy district, it feels like a portal to another era — a reminder of Hong Kong’s spiritual roots amid its modern skyline.
PMQ: A Creative Hub for Local Designers
A short walk uphill brings you to PMQ (Police Married Quarters), a revitalized heritage site that has become a hub for Hong Kong’s creative community. Once the living quarters for married police officers, the complex was transformed in 2014 into a vibrant space for design, art, and culture.
Today, PMQ houses over 100 studios and boutiques run by local designers. You can browse everything from hand‑painted leather jackets to contemporary jewelry, artisanal homeware, and quirky lifestyle products. The complex also hosts regular exhibitions, workshops, and pop‑up events, making it a dynamic space that always feels fresh. Even if you’re not shopping, PMQ’s leafy courtyards and indie cafés make it a great spot to pause and soak in the creative energy.
Tai Kwun: Heritage & Arts Venue
Just a few minutes away is Tai Kwun, another ambitious heritage revitalization project. Once the Central Police Station compound, complete with prison cells and courtrooms, the site has been transformed into a cultural landmark that blends history with contemporary art.
The complex includes 16 restored heritage buildings alongside striking modern additions designed by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. You can wander through old prison blocks, join a guided heritage tour, or explore cutting‑edge exhibitions at Tai Kwun Contemporary. The open courtyards often host performances, film screenings, and festivals, making Tai Kwun a lively gathering place. It’s a rare oasis of space and history in the middle of Central’s skyscraper jungle.
Antique Street (Upper Lascar Row): Curios & Vintage Finds
Heading west into Sheung Wan, you’ll find Upper Lascar Row, better known as Cat Street. This narrow lane has been a treasure trove of antiques and curios for over a century. Once notorious for selling stolen goods, today it’s a mix of genuine antiques, vintage memorabilia, and quirky souvenirs.
You’ll see everything from jade pendants and porcelain vases to Bruce Lee figurines. Some shops specialize in fine Chinese furniture and calligraphy, while others are more like flea markets with eclectic bric‑a‑brac. Even if you’re not buying, browsing Cat Street is a fascinating glimpse into Hong Kong’s layered history and pop culture.
Graham Street: Murals & Wet Market
Back towards Central, Graham Street is home to one of Hong Kong’s oldest continuously operating wet markets. Stalls spill onto the narrow street, selling fresh produce, seafood, and spices — a slice of everyday life that has survived despite rapid urban redevelopment.
But Graham Street is also famous for its street art. The most Instagrammed spot is Alex Croft’s colorful mural of old tong lau tenement buildings, painted on the side of a wall near Hollywood Road. The mural captures the density and vibrancy of old Hong Kong, and has become a must‑stop photo spot for visitors. The contrast between the mural, the market stalls, and the surrounding skyscrapers perfectly sums up Central’s unique character.
Hip Cafés & Restaurants
Central and Sheung Wan are also foodie havens. For a taste of refined Cantonese cuisine, book a table at The Chairman, a Michelin‑starred restaurant that emphasizes freshness and traditional flavors. Signature dishes like steamed crab with Huadiao wine and flower crab noodles have earned it a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
If you’re after something more casual, the neighborhood is dotted with indie cafés and coffee roasters. From minimalist Japanese‑style coffee shops to cozy hideaways serving single‑origin brews, there’s no shortage of places to recharge. Pair your coffee with a pastry from a local bakery, or wander into one of the many international eateries tucked into side streets. The dining scene here reflects Hong Kong’s cosmopolitan spirit — rooted in tradition but always open to new influences.
A Walk Through Time and Taste
The best way to experience Central and Sheung Wan is on foot, weaving through its layers of history and modernity. Start at Sheung Wan MTR and make your way to Man Mo Temple, where incense coils burn in quiet defiance of the city’s rush. From there, wander uphill to PMQ, where local designers showcase Hong Kong’s creative spirit, then cross over to Tai Kwun, where colonial‑era prison blocks now host art exhibitions and open‑air performances.
Continue west to Upper Lascar Row, better known as Cat Street, to browse antiques and curios that whisper stories of the past. Loop back toward Graham Street, where the wet market bustles with daily life and the famous mural of tong lau tenements offers a splash of color and nostalgia. By the time you’ve walked this route, you’ll have traced a living timeline of Hong Kong — from temples and antiques to street art and design hubs.
End your day with a meal or coffee in Sheung Wan. Whether it’s a Michelin‑starred dinner at The Chairman or a flat white in a tucked‑away indie café, the neighborhood’s food scene is the perfect reflection of its character: rooted in tradition yet constantly reinventing itself.
That’s the magic of Central and Sheung Wan. In just a few blocks, you’ll encounter the contrasts that define Hong Kong — sacred and secular, old and new, East and West. It’s a neighborhood that rewards wandering, lingering, and looking closely. If you want to feel the city’s pulse in a single afternoon, this is where to start. For a more thorough exploration of the Hong Kong Island side of Hong Kong, you can refer to our ultimate Day 1 itinerary – “the Iconic Hong Kong”.