Stepping Back in Time at Tai Po Old Market
While modern shopping malls and vast cycle tracks often steal the spotlight in the New Territories, stepping into the Tai Po Old Market area feels like walking into a completely different era. Centered around Kau Hui Chik Street and its bustling surrounding alleys, this nostalgic, low-rise neighborhood is a treasure trove of heritage bakeries, sizzling street food stalls, and grab-and-go treats that have stood the test of time.
If you are exploring the wider neighborhood using our Tai Po area guide, have just finished a heavy meal at the Tai Po Market Cooked Food Centre, or are making your way through our broader guide on Where to Eat in Tai Po, this walking tour is the absolute perfect follow-up. Get ready for a grazing adventure where your only goals are to eat well, explore the streets, and leave plenty of room for dessert!
Tour Logistics: Where to Start
Before we dive into the pastries and skewers, you will need to know how to navigate the area and prepare for the ultimate snack crawl.
Getting There
Starting your Tai Po Old Market walking tour is incredibly easy. You can take the MTR East Rail Line to either Tai Po Market Station or Tai Wo Station. If you start from Tai Po Market Station (Exit A), it is a scenic 10-to-15-minute walk across the Lam Tsuen River to reach the heart of the old market district. Alternatively, Tai Wo Station puts you just a stone’s throw away from the northern edge of the market streets.
How to Pace Yourself
This tour is a marathon, not a sprint! Because you will be sampling everything from flaky baked goods to savory curried fishballs, it is highly recommended to share portions with a friend so you do not fill up at the very first stop.
Additionally, you must bring cash. While Hong Kong is increasingly digital, the heritage bakeries and corner snack stalls you will be visiting operate almost exclusively on a cash-only basis. Be sure to break your larger notes and carry plenty of HK$10, HK$20, and HK$50 bills to make quick transactions a breeze.
Stop 1: Heritage Bakeries and Golden Pastries
Your first stops should definitely cater to your sweet tooth, specifically the kind of baked goods that have defined Hong Kong street snacking for decades.
Red Cherry Bakery (紅櫻桃麵包西餅)
As you wander the old market streets, one absolute must-visit is Red Cherry Bakery (紅櫻桃麵包西餅). While it looks like an unassuming, everyday local bakery from the outside, it holds a cult status among locals.
The undisputed star here is their famous, ultra-crispy almond snacks (almond crisps/cookies). Baked to a perfect golden brown and generously coated with sliced almonds, they offer an incredible, buttery crunch that pairs perfectly with a hot cup of milk tea. They are so good, they also make a fantastic edible souvenir to bring home (if you don’t finish them on the walk!).
Classic Wife Cakes and Egg Tarts
Beyond Red Cherry, keep an eye out as you pass by the glowing display cases of other traditional bakeries along the route. You will easily spot fresh-out-of-the-oven lo po bing (flaky winter melon “wife cakes”) and classic egg tarts (daan tat). Grab a couple of these cheap, comforting classics to munch on while you continue down the street.
Stop 2: Sizzling Street Snacks (Siu Mei & Skewers)
Once you have had your fill of sweet, buttery pastries, it is time to transition into the savory, sizzling side of Tai Po’s street food culture.
Ah Ye Roast Meat (阿爺燒味)
Hong Kong’s roast meat (siu mei) culture is legendary, and while it is often eaten as a sit-down meal over rice, grabbing a portion to-go is a fantastic market experience. As you stroll, you will likely pass the vibrant storefront of Ah Ye Roast Meat (阿爺燒味). Even if you have not planned to eat a full meal, their beautifully glazed char siu (barbecue pork) and crispy roast goose hanging in the window are undeniably tempting. It is a fantastic spot to grab a smaller, takeaway portion of chopped roast meats to share as a decadent, savory mid-tour snack.
Curried Fishballs and Siu Mai
You cannot have a walking tour in a Hong Kong market without indulging in the absolute classics. Look for the bustling corner stalls surrounded by locals holding bamboo skewers and small paper bags.
Order a skewer of bouncy, golden curried fishballs and a portion of bright yellow siu mai (pork and fish dumplings). When ordering, the vendor will usually ask if you want it spicy—don’t be afraid to ask for a little bit of their house-made chili oil or sweet soy sauce to elevate the flavor!
Stop 3: Cooling Down with Traditional Desserts
After conquering the savory skewers and rich roast meats, it is time to cool down and finish your walking tour on a sweet, refreshing note. Hong Kong is famous for its traditional dessert shops (tong sui pu), and Tai Po Old Market has some of the best in the New Territories.
Silky Tofu Pudding at Grandma’s Tofu Fa (阿婆豆腐花)
You cannot talk about desserts in Tai Po without mentioning the legendary Grandma’s Tofu Fa (阿婆豆腐花). This humble, old-school establishment is an absolute institution in the neighborhood. They serve up incredibly soft, silky tofu pudding that practically melts in your mouth. Whether you order it hot or ice-cold to beat the humidity, be sure to generously dust it with sweet yellow sugar or a drizzle of their signature ginger syrup. It is the perfect, light palate cleanser!
Traditional Sweet Soups (Tong Sui)
If you are still craving something sweet after the tofu pudding, the old market alleys are dotted with small dessert parlors serving up classic tong sui (sweet soups). Grab a bowl of rich, warming black sesame paste, classic red bean soup with lotus seeds, or a refreshing, icy mango pomelo sago to cap off your grazing adventure.
Practical Tips for Exploring Tai Po Old Market
To make the most of your snacking adventure, keep these quick tips in mind as you explore the neighborhood:
- Best Time to Go: The ideal time for this walking tour is in the late afternoon (around 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM). The midday heat will have started to fade, the bakeries will be putting out fresh batches, and the street food stalls will be fully fired up and bustling with the after-school crowd.
- Street Food Etiquette: The sidewalks in the old market can be quite narrow. When you grab your snacks, try to step off to the side or find a nearby public square to eat so you do not block pedestrian traffic.
- Trash Disposal: When you finish your skewers or fishballs, always dispose of your bamboo sticks and paper bags in the orange public rubbish bins located at almost every street corner.
🗺️ Exciting News for New Territories Explorers!
We are thrilled to announce the upcoming launch of our Hong Kong North Explorer Map! This custom-made digital map is designed to be your ultimate companion for exploring the best of the New Territories. It will feature detailed, interactive pins for the best cycling routes, our favorite local restaurants, hidden attractions, and more across both Sha Tin and Tai Po. Stay tuned for the official release, and get ready to upgrade your weekend adventures!