Some travel experiences are purely functional. The Star Ferry is not one of them. For over a century, this fleet of green-and-white vessels has been shuttling passengers across Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon — and in doing so, has become one of the most iconic short journeys in the world. At just a few Hong Kong dollars per crossing, it is also one of the great travel bargains anywhere in Asia. If you are visiting Hong Kong for the first time, the Star Ferry is not merely a way to get from one side of the harbour to the other. It is an experience that belongs on your itinerary in its own right.
A Brief History
The Star Ferry Company was founded in 1888 by a Parsee merchant named Dorabjee Naorojee Mithaiwala, who launched a small steam-powered ferry service across Victoria Harbour at a time when the crossing was otherwise made by sampan or private boat. The company changed hands in 1898 and was renamed the Star Ferry Company — each vessel in the fleet given a name ending in “Star”, a tradition that continues to this day with boats named Twinkling Star, Meridian Star, and others still in service.
The pimary Link across the Harbor
For much of the twentieth century, the Star Ferry was the primary link between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Before the Cross-Harbour Tunnel opened in 1972 and long before the MTR extended under the harbour, the ferry was how residents commuted, how goods moved, and how visitors first crossed the water to experience both sides of the city. The opening of the tunnel and later the MTR reduced the ferry’s role as essential infrastructure, but it never lost its place in the city’s identity.
The 2006 Pier Controversy
In 2006, the relocation of the Star Ferry pier in Central from its historic location near Edinburgh Place sparked one of Hong Kong’s most significant heritage controversies — public protests against the demolition of the old pier drew widespread attention to the loss of colonial-era landmarks across the city. The current Central Pier, while functional, is widely regarded as a lesser replacement. The episode remains a touchstone in conversations about heritage preservation in Hong Kong.
Today the Star Ferry carries around 70,000 passengers daily — fewer than its mid-century peak but still a meaningful part of the city’s daily rhythm. Riding it alongside morning commuters heading to work is a reminder that behind the tourist experience lies a century of ordinary Hong Kong life.
The Routes
The Star Ferry currently operates two main routes:
Central to Tsim Sha Tsui
This is the classic crossing — the one that appears on postcards and in travel guides, and for good reason. Departing from Pier 7 in Central, the crossing takes approximately 7 to 8 minutes and offers a continuously shifting panorama of the Hong Kong Island skyline as you leave and the Kowloon waterfront as you approach. The views of Central’s towers — IFC, Cheung Kong Centre, HSBC — framed against the green hills of the Mid-Levels behind them are among the most photographed in Asia. For the best views and photographs, sit on the upper deck and position yourself on the right side when travelling from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui, and on the left side for the return.
Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui
A second route connects Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island to the Tsim Sha Tsui terminal, running at slightly longer intervals than the Central route. This crossing is less well-known among visitors but offers an equally good harbour view from a slightly different angle, and is particularly useful if you are spending time in Wan Chai and want to cross to Kowloon without backtracking to Central.
How to Take the Star Ferry
The process is simple and deliberately old-fashioned. Fares are paid with an Octopus card (tap on entry) or with coins at the turnstile — exact change is required for cash payment. The lower deck fare is marginally cheaper than the upper deck, but the upper deck is worth the extra dollar or two for the unobstructed views and the open-air seating. The turnstiles open a few minutes before departure, and boarding is first-come, first-served.
The ferry runs daily from approximately 6:30am to 11:30pm on both routes, with departures roughly every 6 to 12 minutes during peak hours and every 12 to 20 minutes in the evenings. Fares range from around HK$2.70 to HK$4.50 depending on the deck and route — making it one of the cheapest harbour crossings anywhere in the world.
How to Incorporate the Star Ferry into Your Hong Kong Days
The Star Ferry is most rewarding when it is treated as part of a larger itinerary rather than a standalone tick-box activity. Here are a few ways to build it naturally into your time in Hong Kong:
As part of Day 1 — The Classic Harbour Crossing
The most natural introduction to the Star Ferry is on your first evening in Hong Kong. Cross from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui in the early evening, walk the Avenue of Stars along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, and watch the Symphony of Lights harbour show at 8pm from the promenade. Then board the return ferry to Central after the show — the night crossing, with Hong Kong Island fully illuminated ahead of you, is one of the great short journeys in travel.
At Sunrise or Early Morning
Taking the Star Ferry at sunrise — particularly in the cooler months between October and March — offers a completely different and far quieter experience. The early morning light across the harbour, the commuters heading to work, and the absence of tourist crowds make for a crossing that feels genuinely local. Combine it with a cha chaan teng breakfast in Tsim Sha Tsui or Central immediately after for a perfect start to the day.
As a Photography Platform
The upper deck of the Star Ferry offers a moving, open-air platform for harbour photography that no fixed viewpoint can replicate. The constantly changing angle relative to the skyline, the reflection of light on the water, and the opportunity to shoot the receding skyline as you cross all make for images that are difficult to capture from land. Bring a camera rather than relying on a phone if photography is a priority — the combination of motion, distance, and low light in the evenings can challenge a phone camera’s stabilisation.
As a Link Between Neighbourhoods
Rather than always taking the MTR under the harbour, use the Star Ferry as a deliberate choice when crossing between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. It adds only a few minutes compared to the MTR and the experience is incomparably better. Particularly useful when travelling between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui — two of the most visited areas in Hong Kong — the ferry turns a routine transit moment into one of the highlights of the day.
A Few Tips
- Octopus card is the easiest way to pay — no need to carry exact change
- Upper deck is always worth the marginal extra fare for the views
- Right side of the upper deck from Central to TST for the best skyline photography position
- Avoid the 8pm crossing from Central to TST on weekends if you simply want a quiet ride — the Symphony of Lights crowd makes boarding busier at this time. Take the 7:30pm crossing instead and watch the show from the TST promenade
- The Wan Chai to TST route is significantly less crowded than the Central route and worth using if you are in the area
If you’re visiting in the evening and want a more leisurely way to soak in the Symphony of Lights and Hong Kong’s skyline, you can also check out my full write-up on the Aqua Luna Victoria Harbour night cruise as an alternative to the Star Ferry.
FAQs
Is the Star Ferry worth taking if I’m only in Hong Kong for a few days?
Yes. The Star Ferry is one of Hong Kong’s most iconic experiences and offers harbour views you simply do not get from the MTR or cross-harbour tunnels, all for just a few Hong Kong dollars per ride. It is short, scenic, and easy to fit between Central, Wan Chai, and Tsim Sha Tsui sightseeing stops.
How much does it cost to ride the Star Ferry?
A single crossing usually costs between about HK$3 and HK$5 depending on the route, day of the week, and whether you choose the upper or lower deck. The upper deck is slightly more expensive but still extremely affordable and is the better choice for views and photography.
What are the Star Ferry routes?
The Star Ferry runs two main routes: Tsim Sha Tsui to Central and Tsim Sha Tsui to Wan Chai across Victoria Harbour. Both crossings take under 10 minutes and link some of the most visited neighbourhoods on Hong Kong Island and in Kowloon.
What are the Star Ferry operating hours?
On the core Tsim Sha Tsui–Central route, ferries typically run from around 6:30am until about 11:30pm, with sailings every 6 to 20 minutes depending on the time of day. The Tsim Sha Tsui–Wan Chai route starts a little later in the morning and also runs until late at night, so it is easy to work a crossing into most itineraries.
Should I sit on the upper or lower deck?
The upper deck is the better choice for most visitors thanks to its more open views, slightly higher vantage point, and more comfortable seating. The lower deck is cheaper and a bit more utilitarian, which some travellers enjoy if they want a more local, no-frills feel.
Which side of the Star Ferry has the best views?
For the classic Hong Kong skyline shots, sit on the right-hand side of the upper deck when travelling from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui, and on the left-hand side when making the return journey. This angle keeps the Hong Kong Island skyscrapers and the Kowloon waterfront in front of you for most of the crossing.
Can I pay for the Star Ferry with Octopus?
Yes. You can tap an Octopus card at the turnstiles, which is the fastest and easiest way to board. If you do not have an Octopus card, you can also pay in coins at the pier, but you will need exact change.
Is the Star Ferry good for photography?
Absolutely. The upper deck effectively becomes a moving photography platform, giving you changing angles on both skylines and reflections across Victoria Harbour that you cannot replicate from a fixed viewpoint. If low-light shots matter to you, bringing a proper camera rather than relying only on a phone can make a noticeable difference.
When is the best time of day to ride the Star Ferry?
Early evening is ideal if you want to combine the crossing with a walk along the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade and the Symphony of Lights show at 8pm. For a quieter, more local feel, sunrise and early-morning crossings outside of peak commute times are wonderfully calm and atmospheric.
Is the Star Ferry included in any tourist passes?
The Star Ferry offers a 4-day tourist ticket that allows unlimited rides on regular services for a fixed price, which can be useful if you plan to cross the harbour frequently in a short stay. For most visitors, though, the pay-per-ride cost is low enough that a pass is more of a convenience than a money-saver.
Is the Star Ferry accessible for travellers with luggage or mobility issues?
You can bring small luggage on board as long as it meets the pier’s size and safety rules, and many travellers use the ferry when moving between hotels and transport hubs. Wheelchair users can board with assistance, but it is best to allow a little extra time at the pier and use staff guidance, especially on the Wan Chai–Tsim Sha Tsui route where the lower deck may need to be opened specifically for accessibility.
